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"Our customers are people who are well traveled and have high expectations in terms of both quality and value," says owner Chuck Goldberg, and overall, the Academy Ocean Grille delivers on both counts. The restaurant's nicely composed wine list, for example, offers a full spectrum of styles and flavors, while keeping price markups at reasonable levels. Wines-by-the-glass selections are a particularly good value. Hefty 6-ounce pours are served in the restaurant's handsome, signature stemware, all priced at $10 and under. An appetizer of escargot was served with artichoke hearts, tossed in a potent butter and garlic sauce, tempered with a splash of marinara. It was a top-notch presentation. One of the more adventurous-sounding appetizers is tempura-fried mussels, dipped in wasabi-seasoned batter. A dinner entrée of raspberry-glazed roast duckling was outstanding. The duck was boned, which made it all the more easy to love. This restaurant has always been known for its classic sole Francaise. A perfectly fresh fillet of sole was dipped in beaten egg batter and fried in butter. It was turned out to perfection, sweet, juicy and thoroughly satisfying. If halibut fillet sautéed with a crust of coconut and crushed macadamia nuts sounds appealing to you, I would call Chef Davis' version a must-try, a true destination dish. I marvel at his ability to turn out a piece of fish that is still completely moist on the inside, while the exterior coating is cooked to a crusty, golden brown. No small culinary feat. …the restaurant's renowned "sticky toffee pudding," uses a recipe borrowed from London's famous restaurant, The Ivy. The secret ingredient is ground dates, but I wouldn't have guessed it. The Brits call all desserts "puddings," so don't expect anything akin to Jell-O brand here. This is a super moist cube of cake infused with toffee syrup, and laden with a spoonful of hot, liquid toffee. …the new interior is bright, casually elegant and relaxed. A stylish cocktail bar was added, a nice spot to unwind while you wait to be seated.
Terry Ward Libby
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